Camino Francés 3rd - 10th July, 2024
As so often happens, a casual remark led to an adventure! The Camino de Santiago had vaguely entered my thoughts as something I might like to do since coming to live in Spain, however it wasn’t until a friend recently walked some of it, that the idea gained momentum. Exploring possibilities, I came across an organisation which would enable me to join a group of Spanish people making the trip. Linda, who was one of our Covid walking group was up for it too!
We chose to undertake the Camino Francés, one of the more popular routes. We would be completing the last 5 stages from Sarria in the province of Lugo and arriving at Santiago de Compostela, covering some 120kms between 3rd and 10th July.
3rd/4th July
We were to be picked up at 10pm from a meeting point about an hour away from home. Arriving with time to spare, we whiled away the time getting in steps walking around the shopping centre from where we were to depart! A minibus eventually arrived to take us to join the coach, which would not only be our transport to and from the Camino, it would also be our safe haven for the week of our trip.
Seats were allocated at the outset and would remain the same throughout the trip. The coach would take our cases from one location to the next in order that we need only carry lightweight rucksacks.
Ramona our driver and her coach, our safe haven
After travelling through the night we made stops at Ponferrada and O Cebreiro before arriving in Sarria. Most of the group elected to stay in Albuerges which provide simple dormitory type rooms for pilgrims. Linda and I opted for a more comfortable hotel room, as did a few others from our group!
Our group leader was Manolo (right) and bringing up the rear was Jesus making sure that no-one was left behind.
5th July
Stage 1: Sarria to Portomarín
After breakfast, the group joined forces from their respective accommodation. By 8am we were off. A short, sharp shock awaited after walking through picturesque Sarria; to leave the town we had to climb several flights of steep stone steps! Once at the top though, we stopped and had our first group photo taken.
Then came the excitement of obtaining a stamp for our Pilgrim's Passport whilst undertaking the first stage of the Camino. We stopped at a church and as I had my camera with me, I tried to take photos which were more than snaps. It was obvious it wasn't going to work; too many people, no time for composition, lack of subject interest and finally, what to me, was a waste of walking time! My camera would stay in my case and any photos taken would be with my iPhone.
The terrain was challenging in parts, however the cool early morning temperatues provided ideal conditions for walking. The stress of the unknown weighed heavily. Was I physically capable of the challenge over the 5 day hike, did I understand all the instructions given as no-one else spoke English, could I integrate with the group and where could I find places to go to the loo if need be!
Walking at a reasonable pace based on the training Linda and I had done for a while beforehand, we were surprised to find ourselves with few of our group in front of us. It was unsettling to start with, however the route was well signposted with the Camino logo, an arrow showing route direction and a count of the number of kilometres left to reach Santiago.
Passing through a large wooded area we saw a group of policemen standing next to a large parked van. One of the policemen took a photo of Linda and me as we neared their vehicle. I was curious as to why they were on watch and as we walked past, asked with a smile as to whether they offered a stamp for our Pilgrim's Passport. We were delighted to find out they were happy to stamp our passport and wish us well. Apparently the police were from the Spanish Guardia Civil and Portuguese police checking pilgrims en route to Portomarín.
There were a few places en route to stop and have a drink or buy food, however they were always full of people and with long queues to be served. We preferred to keep walking, having our own drink and food at which to nibble.
Eventually crossing the river into Portomarín we saw Ramona and her husband crossing the bridge on the opposite side and yelling to us we were the first to arrive! Awaiting our weary bodies was several flights of steep steps which we had to negoitiate to reach the town as well as our hotel for the night. Nonetheless, we had completed the first stage of our camino!
As we knew the name of our hotel we went to check in and make the most of an hour and a half before we met the others for our 3pm meal. The Spanish football team was playing against Germany in the European Cup. After we'd eaten and rested a bit, we joined others from our group in one of the rooms in the Albergue where a tv had been set up. At half time we decided to find some more comfortable seats and moved to the local bar for the rest of the match where there were other foreigners too. We were quizzed on where our support was focussed and cheered when we said Spain!
Our first day on the Camino came to a close and Spain had won their match.
6th July
Stage 2: Portomarín to Palas de Rey
After breakfasting separately in our different accommodation, the group assembled for Stage 2 of our walk. There was low cloud and it was mizzling, however it didn't seem to adversely effect the mood of the group. A few laughs were had with some people trying to loosen stiff joints, then we were off back across the bridge and river and on our way to our next destination, Palas de Rei. It was at this point when I realised that there was a little dog in our midst. Apparently it belonged to a couple who hadn't been with us the previous day and had to make alternative arrangements to walk with their dog as he wasn't allowed on the coach.
Linda and I had been pleasantly surprised by a lack of aches and pains from our walk of the previous day. We weren't however, looking forward to the first bit of this next stage. There was a fairly steep, continuous incline right from the start lasting for about 5kms. I'd discovered the day before that I was stronger than I anticipated walking uphill once I had found my rhythm. I pushed on and waited at places for Linda to catch up, however as the hilly stage was continuous, it was a while before we joined forces again!
We eventually walked together again and stopped to get a stamp at an old church along with the group. I think this is when my enthusiasm for collecting stamps began to wain. Waiting in line for so many people to have their passports stamped really wasn't appealing; the excitement had worn off! This feeling was further reinforced a little later as we stopped to investigate a trinket shop in a barn alongside a few rural houses offering a pilgrim's stamp. We had a look inside and could see the proprietor bending the ears of a few youngsters not from our group and persuading them to part with money. Already on the offensive as all we wanted was to get our passports stamped, we listened politely for a few minutes and then asked if we could get the stamps and be on our way. The guy was not amused, asked if we were English (to which we replied "no"!) and then handed back our unstamped passports with disdain!
Once the steep section gave way to downhill roads and tracks we walked comfortably and enjoyed the views and looking around. We saw a sign which needed more investigation and found it was a cemetery for pilgrims. We definitely didn't need a stop at that place! It was a joy to walk this second stretch having conquered the steep bit and the only noises we encountered belonged to nature and the local community.
We reached the outskirts of Palas de Rei and sitting waiting to greet us all was Ramona and her husband Jose.
After we'd eaten the group split with those of us in a hotel being bussed out of Palas de Rei into unusual accommodation in the countryside. Everything apart from sleeping seemed to take place in a concrete underground bunker! We had to check in at the bunker which was also set out for meals. Our rooms were cabin type and separate from the bunker; different! Once settled into our room, I tried to sort out the tv as I wanted to watch the England/Switzerland match. Panic ensued as there was no signal. Kick off was imminent so a dash back to the bunker where a helpful young lady came back to our room and managed to get the tv up and running; I'd only missed the first 5 mins! We won (just) and a good night's sleep followed!
7th July
Stage 3: Palas de Rei to Arzúa
This stage didn't appear to be too arduous with no steep climbs or drops; we really felt that now we were on the downward stretch towards Santiago. However, it was the longest stage and of course on the third consecutive day of walking it would be a test for mind and body. Arrangements had been made for a stop after a walk of 15kms in the town of Melide, famous for its octopus; we were to sample some of this famous delicacy. Thereafter there was a choice to walk the remaining 15kms in total or walk 6kms more then board the coach and ride to the hotel. I would make up my mind what I would do as each option arrived.
We left Palas de Rei and as usual stopped for a group photo beside a church where a stamp was available. To try and speed this part up, Manolo operated the stamp and added it quickly to each Passport as it was laid in front of him; much more efficient!
While we were posing for our group photo, a lady came past and laughingly made to join us before quickly moving away. We all called out for her to come back and be in our photo, which she did and is to the l/h side of the photo! Manolo decided that he'd like a photo of us as we crossed over a rock bridge. It meant that he had to remove his shoes and socks to get the right perspective while we all obligingly waited. Then it was on to Melide and our date with octopus.
The entrance to the town was over a picturesque bridge and we assumed we'd shortly see some familiar faces. We weren't in luck and neither could we see our coach. I did however have the name of the restaurant where we'd be eating and after looking it up on Google Maps, saw that thankfully, we weren't too far away. As we made our way towards the restaurant, so we spotted Ramona; we weren't really lost!
Our food was scheduled to be served at 1.30pm, however as the proprietor was a friend of Manolol and we were only half way along our walk, we ate earlier. The wine and beer flowed and the tables were full of platters of pulpo and small, sweet peppers.
Stomachs were full for the next stretch of the route. Nearly everyone decided to carry on for at least the next 5kms and we had another group photo to celebrate!
Walking was comfortable even though temperatures had climbed. The route took us through woods and we had the benefit of shade from trees. We could hear the sound of pipes playing as we walked and as we neared a track junction, we could see a piper playing
the Asturian pipes accompanied by a drummer; an evocative sound in the middle of nowhere!
I had already decided I wanted to attempt to walk the whole of this stage and found myself leaving the group behind. After 5kms I saw the coach and Ramona waiting by the side of the road and let them know I was going to carry on alone. Manolo had said that this last stretch of the route was very up and down hill and that there wasn't much to see. It was the challenge which counted for me though and I wanted to rise to it.
Shortly after I left Ramona and the coach, I past a lady walking on her own. Wishing her a Buen Camino, I carried on at my own speed. On one of the very steep hills, I stopped for a drink and breather. The lady caught me up and introduced herself as Carmen from Ecuador; she'd walked the whole of the Camino Frances and was on her penultimate day before heading back to Madrid where she worked.
We counted down the kilometers left to reach Arúza together, finding that our walking rhythm was similar. It helped a lot to have her on this last 10kms and especially the haul up to the town itself which just seemed to go on and on! As we entered the town, there was Romana and Jose and our coach parked in front of the hotel where all the group would have accommodation for the night. I introduced them to Carmen and their response was hearty congratulations to us both and a reminder that making friends was very much part of the Camino journey.
8th July
Stage 4: Arúza to Pedrouzo
I suppose we shouldn't have been so blaise about "only" having to complete 20kms mostly on fairly level ground! It was a lovely walk through long forest tracks and crossing or walking alongside a national highway at times.
We arrived at our restaurant for the day in good time for our 2pm meal. Being one of the first there, we were able to choose a seat to watch as the rest of the group eventually came into view and trouped up the hill towards us. I heard conversations within our group and picked up snippets before being told that we didn't have far to go now, only 5kms! Since I was expecting to arrive at our hotel somewhere close by, it came as news to me, however there was nothing for it but to "go with the flow"! I started walking just behind a few of the stronger walkers in order to get whatever it was we were doing over, sooner rather than later! A call on someone's phone from Manolo gave us the instruction to stop at km15. We did so and saw our coach pass by and pull in just ahead on the main road. It was a long stretch uphill and just as we reached the coach, so it pulled away and disappeared out of sight. So cruel! We'd walked another 6kms more than anticipated and still we hadn't finished.
It was a long haul up the hill alongside the main road and eventually we spotted our coach tucked into a parking area of an abandoned restaurant. Hoping that Ramona didn't pull away again before we boarded we reclaimed our seats and gratefully sat down! Tee-shirts were handed out to us and there were some instructions as to when (if we wanted) to wear them. I also understood that we were now heading to our accommodation in Santiago where we'd be staying for 2 nights. Apparently this arrangement had been made and included the additional kilometres we'd walked, so that there would be fewer kilometres to walk on our last day and those people who wanted, could attend a special Pilgrim's Mass at 11am.
I surmised that tomorrow we'd retrace the distance we'd travelled in the coach into Santiago and restart our walk from where we left off.
Arriving in Santiago it was mizzling as we pulled our cases through the paved streets to the Santiago Monasterio San Martín Pinario, right in the centre of the city. There was only one lift for everyone and their suitcases, however someone had the bright idea to send cases up to each level and the owners could use the stairs. We were on the 3rd floor and thankfully I was able to squeeze my body into the lift with the cases and hitch a ride!
Whilst others in the group went out in the rain to explore, we decided that as we'd be there for the next night too, we'd spend the time chilling out at the hotel.
9th July
Stage 5: Pedrouzo to Santiago
An early start was required to ensure we were back in Santiago for the Pilgrim's Mass. It meant no time for formal breakfast so we were all handed picnic bags with a sandwich, apple, drink and sweet biscuits to keep us going. It was still dark and raining as we left at 7am. As we had already completed 6kms of the last day's route, we were dropped off at the appropriate point to continue our Camino walk. We had walked around the perimeter of airport runway when we smelt coffee and toast! There was also a church to get the first of our two needed stamps for the day.
The coffee was much needed. The Spanish sandwiches were inedible, being thick white bread with just dry ham and cheese inside. As we drank our coffee, the lady who had joined us for a photo a day of so previously went past. Eventually we caught her up. She had been walking the Camino Frances from the beginning since May 24th. Accompanied by her daughter, we learnt that she was 85 years old, her name is Martha and this was her 3rd Camino. We stopped for a photo and received details of her blog. I shall check to see when she gets home.
Manolo was keen for us to keep together as a group, however inevitably, the group spread out and we eventually congregated at the last church on the Camino before entering the outskirts of Santiago itself. Here we donned our tee-shirts to be recognised as we walked through the streets to the Cathedral as a distinct group!
One last group photo as we entered to city itself and then a walk through Santiago's wet streets. There was singing as we walked and a few cheers; it was a happy and emotional group which entered the square and stood on the 0kms mark before congratulating and embracing each other. Even the little dog had made it all the way in spite of being mauled by an alsatian en route and needing the attention of a vet
We had all arrived safe and sound and my boots could come off at long last!
Now the walk was over, attention turned to other important things; Spain's footballers were playing Germany in the European Cup. I found out where the game was going to be broadcast (conveniently in the bar at the hotel) and settled down to enjoy it all with many from the group. It was almost as good watching the Spaniards as it was the football, they contested each tackle and move verbally in support of their footballers! Once the game was over, Manolo led us on a noctural walk around the centre of Santiago. He explained much about the history and customs of the city and also showed us the pilgrim shadow, created completely inadvertently by street lamps.
We also came across the Tuna de Derecho, a group of musicians and actors who perform at 10pm each night in the plaza in front of the cathedral. We thought we'd missed them because of the 11pm finish of the football, however they wandered our way and we were fortunate to have a personal performance from them!
10th July
Homeward bound.
An early breakfast and then the walk through Santiago to load our cases and board our coach for the trip home. As we left Santiago, Manolo played on his guitar and had us all singing "We are the Champions". It certainly felt that way.
A scheduled stop in Sanabria, a picturesque village overlooking a river and on the border with Portugal. Best views were from the top of a hill (of course!) and the stop was also used for the coach to fill with different purchases of cheeses and meats by group members.
A further stop was made at a restaurant in Arévalo for those who'd paid for a meal, to fill their stomachs once again. A few of us wanted something lighter and had a drink and tapas at the bar instead. Shortly afterwards we said goodbye to Ramona and Jose as a relief driver took over; they had looked after us well all week.
Our final stop as a group was about an hour and a half from Granada. Those of us who'd transferred from the minibus to the coach, did the reverse transfer and an hour and a half later we were back in Granada where our transport home awaited.
Epilogue
There were times on parts of the routes that I wasn't sure if I'd want to do it again or indeed any other Camino. On the penultimate day I remember thinking that I just wanted it to be over! I think however, much of that had to do with the unexpected extra 6kms and the drizzly weather. I was delighted that I was more than physically capable of the walk and the only wound to report was a discolouring of one of my toe nails, for some reason! I was tired and glad that nothing more was organised, at least for a few weeks once home. However, writing this blog and reliving all the experiences, I think I might have another go now I know more about what is involved. I would always wish to travel with a group of Spaniards on such ventures. They may be loud and opinionated, however humour and joy surround them wherever they go and whatever they do. They are also incredibly non judgemental and celebrate successes unreservedly. Ask me next year though for a definitive answer!
Photos included in this blog came from a variety of sources. Permission to use photos which weren't taken by me was obtained.
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