The second call of the Camino de Santiago: A journey begins anew
- mcneiljune2
- Jul 25
- 11 min read
My second Camino adventure was along the Camino Portugués, beginning in Portugal and ending at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela in Spain. Ahead, a unique blend of familiarity and fresh anticipation awaited.
As the last rays of the sun dipped below the horizon, casting the world in shades of orange and soft violet, we headed to the departure point of the coach in the mountain village of Ibros. The familiar landmarks of home faded into the rearview mirror, replaced by the rising silhouettes of the mountains – a gentle, yet firm reminder that I was leaving the everyday behind, stepping into a different kind of time.
My first Camino had been a revelation, a stripping away of layers, a discovery of resilience I never knew I possessed. This second journey, I sensed, would be different – perhaps less about finding myself, and more about deepening that understanding, about walking a new path with a heart already opened to the Way's peculiar magic. My husband Chris was also joining this adventure, ready to walk his own Camino in his own way.
Waiting in the central area of Ibros, we watched as other members of the group started to arrive; a collection of individuals from various walks of life, converging for a shared purpose. Their faces, some bright with excitement, others etched with a quiet contemplation, hinted at the diverse stories they carried, the personal reasons that had drawn them to this very spot.
For the next eight days, these strangers would be my companions. We would share steps, meals, laughter and quiet moments of reflection. We would navigate the physical challenges of the Camino and the subtle shifts within our own spirits. The coach, waiting patiently for everyone to board wasn't just a mode of transport; it was our security, a familiar constant throughout our journey. The adventure had truly begun.
Ibros to Ourense
We travelled overnight to Ourense in Galicia, which is famous for one thing above all others: its abundance of natural hot springs, a gift that has been cherished for centuries. Arriving mid-morning gave time for a visit to the Outariz Thermal Baths just outside the city.
For some in our group, the allure of those intensely warm waters was irresistible.
My idea of unwinding took a slightly different turn however; it was enough for me to sit with a pot of tea in the shade and watch people wallowing in waters of 40°C! Ourense was where two friends joined the group for the Camino experience; our group was now complete and we sat down to our first communal meal together.
Stage 1: Valença do Minho to O'Porriño - 18.7 kms
We were up bright and early, breakfasted and en route by coach to Portugal for our first experience of the Camino Portugués. Our destination: Valença do Minho, an historic fortress town nestled on the Portuguese side of the Minho River, just opposite its Spanish counterpart. Medieval walls rose majestically around us, hinting at centuries of stories. But our true starting point lay just beyond the town's fortifications: the iconic international bridge.
It was. a gentle introduction to our first day's walking. Mostly on the level, we walked along cobbled streets, through wooded areas and alongside streams all the time following the Camino Scallop Shell guiding our route.
As the day progressed, the initial excitement settled into a quiet contentment. A manageable 18.7km allowed our bodies and minds to adapt; it wasn't about conquering miles, but laying the perfect foundation, building confidence and whetting our appetite for the adventures still to come.
We gathered together at the end of the first stage in O'Porriño. Our coach awaited ready to take us to our accommodation. Last year, our journey had unfolded with a different kind of rhythm. Each day culminated in arrival at a new location, a fresh set of streets to explore and a different bed to rest our heads after reaching our daily destination. Luggage was retrieved within minutes of arrival, there was time to relax before dinner and the unique character of each stopping point could be absorbed first hand. It was an immersive, albeit sometimes demanding proceess – the constant unpacking and repacking, the daily search for amenities, the delightful uncertainty of each new hotel.
Instead of this nomadic sequence of one-night stands, this time we were embracing the concept of a "base camp." Our coach in O'Porriño was the first step in transporting us not to the closest town, but across the stunning Galician landscape to the tranquil embrace of the Isla de Arousa. Here, a singular hotel would serve as our sanctuary for the entire duration of our four-night stay.
After an hour's journey we arrived and went directly to the dining room. Little did we know, however, that our imminent meal came with a rather extraordinary pre-requisite.
As we took our seats, Benjamin, the hotel owner welcomed us with the news that there was a small tradition to uphold; we must sing and dance for our food!
The music started, Benjamin’s energy was utterly infectious. His genuine joy, his complete lack of self-consciousness, was a powerful force. It wasn't long before members of our group joined in sharing a completely unexpected moment of pure, unadulterated fun. The meal that followed, although delicious, almost felt secondary to the unique experience we’d just shared. It wasn't just a quirky hotel rule; it was a masterclass in breaking the ice, in fostering community and in reminding us that sometimes, the best moments are the ones that push us just slightly out of our comfort zones.
Our arrival at the hotel was meant to be about satisfying our hunger. Instead, Benjamin gifted us with something far more nourishing: a memory woven with laughter, music, and the simple joy of singing and dancing our way to supper. It was, without a doubt, the most memorable check-in I’ve ever had.
It had been an exceptionally hot day for this part of the world and after a quick walk to the small port, it was time for bed.
An early rise to get to the start point for our second day's walk on the Camino. It was a quiet group which settled on the coach to travel the distance to where we'd finished the day before. Quiet that is until a self appointed DJ managed to get us involved in singing what would become our morning anthem en route to a day's walk. The lyrics, whatever they were, faded into the background, superseded by the feeling of togetherness as we joined in the chorus shedding the last vestiges of individual solitude and embracing the collective spirit of the Camino. By the time we had arrived at our destination, we were invigorated and ready for the challenges ahead.
The Camino is often described as a journey of physical endurance and spiritual reflection. But as that morning bus ride proved, it's also a journey of unexpected connections, spontaneous joy, and the simple magic found in a shared moment. Sometimes, the most profound Camino experiences aren't found on the path itself, but in the surprising, harmonious detours that lead us there. Our second day's walk began not with silence, but with an echo of a song, a testament to the power of a self-appointed DJ and a bus load of pilgrims ready to sing their way to the start!
Stage 2: O'Porriño to Redondela - 16kms
Although fewer kilometers than the first stage, a steady upill climb from the start defined this stage as a harder walk. Walking through wooded areas provided welcome shade and at the summit the views were glorious. As the Camino headed downhill, some beautiful areas were a delight to walk through. I don't really remember too much about this stage for some reason. It was where I acknowledged that I felt more comfortable walking on my own and to my own rhythm. I joined a few people as we neared our destination and after a welcome cold beer we headed to where our coach was waiting.
The return journey to our hotel was shorter after the stage 2 walk was complete. Various activities had been organised after the meal, however we were able to join the hotel owner for a tour around the Isla do Arousa of which he is immensely proud. Benjamin, a man of boundless energy and infectious enthusiasm, navigated us through the island's hidden gems with astonishing speed. It wasn't just the sheer number of places we accessed, from secluded coves to breathtaking panoramic viewpoints, but also the rapid-fire delivery of his knowledge. Keeping up with Benjamin's passionate chatter was a challenge, each sentence packed with anecdotes, history, and personal insights that brought the island to life in a way no guidebook ever could.
Upon our return to the hotel another delightful surprise awaited. Benjamin, beaming with familial pride, introduced us to his uncle – a remarkable gentleman just a few months shy of his 100th birthday. Before we could fully express our awe at his longevity, the sprightly centenarian-in-waiting declared his intention to show us his dance moves. And indeed, with a mischievous glint in his eye, he launched into a spirited demonstration, his movements a testament to a life lived with joy and an enduring zest that transcended his years.
Stage 3: Redondela to Pontevedra - 19.5kms
We were in for a treat on this stage of the walk. After leaving Redondela, we enjoyed stunning coastal views, nice trails, and lovely towns. This day was when the Virgin del Carmen was celebrated in Spain and as we walked, so fireworks started to explode below in several villages. We climbed and walked along tracks and through wooded areas. There were a couple of steep climbs which afforded stunning views. For most of the day, we were walking beside the Ría de Vigo and the views of the Vigo estuary were one of the highlights of this stage. This was the first stage where Chris and I were able to catch up en route, albeit briefly!
Stage 4: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis - 23kms
This stage was a relatively easy walk, wandering through corridors of green tunnels of vines, stone walls, often moss-covered and there was a hill, of course. This is Galicia, there’s always a hill. There route was gentle, easy trails and clear markers after the initial steep uphill climb. At the highest point people ahead stopped for coffee and food. My preference is always to continue walking and soon I found myself ahead of everyone else. The coach was parked at a location where a waterfall could be accessed half a kilometer away. I briefly had a scout around, saw no-one and no waterfall so carried on!
The route felt busier; it always does the closer to Santiago you get. Other routes joined at various points all heading to Santiago; sometimes we met some locals going about their daily lives.
Arriving in Caldas de Reis I met Pepe, a member of our group who enjoyed walking in a similar manner to me (i.e. on his own!). We located the pick up point for the coach and then sat beside the river with a cold drink, watching as other members of our group eventually started to cross the bridge heading towards the pick up point.
Tonight was our final evening on the idyllic island paradise, a place that had woven itself into the fabric of our souls over the past weeks. We expected a grand send-off and as we gathered in the dining room, anticipation abounded. We weren't to be disappointed.
Benjamin, our effervescent host, awaited. His familiar broad smile was in place, his eyes twinkling with a shared excitement. With a flourish, he signalled for the music to begin.
We froze.
The first notes that filled the night air were not, as we had expected, the familiar, infectious rhythm of our favourite tune – this was... different. Unrecognisable, certainly not "our" music. We looked at each other, puzzled and wondering what was going on!
Then Benjamin, with a grin that threatened to split his face, began to sing and dance. It was clear this was his moment, he delighted in our confusion. We soon joined him as best we could and when the song ended, Benjamin he threw his head back and roared with laughter, clapped his hands and "our" song began. The familiar beat, the one that had become the unofficial anthem of our holiday, swelled through the speakers. It had been a prank, a delightful, perfectly executed ruse by our resident trickster!
The spontaneous eruption of cheers was instant and heartfelt. All pretense, all awkwardness, vanished in a flash. We embraced the last, cherished chance to dance with our wonderful host. It wasn't just a farewell party; it was a perfect encapsulation of the island's spirit and the genuine, unforgettable connection we’d forged with Benjamin. A farewell not of sorrow, but of uproarious joy and a shared secret, a memory that would echo long after the last notes faded into the night.
Stage 5: Caldas de Reis to Padrón/Esclavitude - 19kms/26kms
Loading our cases into the coach early we waved goodbye to the hotel staff who'd looked after us to well during our stay and headed to our penultimate day on the Camino before our ultimate goal would be reached. There were two options to this day's walk. From Caldas de Reis to Padrón or continuing on to Esclavitude another 7kms distance. I had decided to make a decision about the additional 7kms when I reached Padrón. I wanted to walk the complete stage. I arrived at Padrón with plenty of time to continue although I didn't see any of our group ahead.
As I stopped for a drink and sat on a wall, so Pepe came up. He'd joined his wife who hadn't made the walk, however when he saw I was continuing, decided he would also complete this stage. We walked on and soon covered the extra distance and then settled down to await the arrival of the coach and the rest of our group. It was a lovely experience to climb on to the coach to cheers from our fellow walkers. The coach then headed for Santiago and our accommodation right at the heart of the city alongside the cathedral. A very different experience awaited us in the Hospedería San Martín Pinario. A beautiful building with an air of solemnity. We ate in the huge dining area with other groups and then made our way to our rooms for an early night. Tomorrow we would have a very early start in order to complete the last stage of the Camino and be back in Santiago in time for mass in the cathedral at 12:00
Stage 6: Esclavitude to Santiago - 18.4kms
Dropped off at what felt like the very edge of nowhere, ahead, there was a solitary beacon of light – Pepe’s torch. I decided to keep pace, especially through the wooded areas until daylight came. I could hear the murmur of voices as another of the group joined Pepe and walked to this sound which becamee part of the dawn chorus.
Almost imperceptibly, the landscape began to shift. The soft give of forest floor gave way to the unyielding solidity of concrete. The rustle of unseen leaves gave way to the faint hum of distant traffic. We were leaving the green embrace of the countryside and entering the outskirts of Santiago, the very air seeming to thicken with the anticipation of our arrival. Finding the meeting point and seeing a cafe close by, a few of us headed to have a much missed morning coffee now our mission was complete. Once the group was together again, we walked into the Plaza in front of the Cathedral where the famous 0kms point is located. What a joyous occasion and we even brought our unofficial island anthem to the Plaza as well.
Concluding thoughts
I was so pleased to have completed another Camino with some of the people with whom I shared last year's walk. It was also great to have longer standing friends from way back along, as well as watching Chris as he embraced and grew into his first truly Spanish experience. I would think about another Camino experience next year, provided it was one organised by Manolo, our organiser and guide both last year and this year. His knowledge, his calmness, experience and obvious joy in seeing us all immerse ourselves in these experiences is what makes these Camino walks special. It wouldn't be the same without him.
It also wouldn't be the same if we weren't transported by Autocares Miguel Martos and my favourite coach driver, Ramona and sometime walking companion.
What an accomplisment, I'm in awe of this. You are amazing.